A pattern by Alice Carroll from Bernat’s Handknit Classics
(picture to follow - camera is broken here at Kitchener Bitch headquarters!)
Gauge:
8 1/2 stitches = 1 inch
Needles (suggested - please use appropriate size to get gauge for YOU):
One pair size 1 double pointed needles; one pair size 2 double pointed needles.
Materials:
The original pattern called for Bernat Laurelspun or Bernat Sweater and Stocking Worsted. For anklet: 2 balls For regulation sock: 3 balls of Laurelspun or 4 balls of Sweater & Stocking Worsted For knee socks: 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) balls for size 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) The Kitchener Bitch recommends that you use any fingering weight sock yarn, assuming 400 yards for anklets or “regulation” socks and 600-800 yards for knee socks.
Note 1: If you are in doubt in regard to your stitch gauge, and particularly if you are working with a heavier yarn, use a smaller needle or the number of stitches forthe smaller size, if you are a loose knitter; and vice-versa if you are a tight knitter and you are working with a lighter gauge yarn. The lighter yarn is recommended for the anklets and the heavier yarn is recommended for regulation length socks and for all knee socks.
Note 2: Any all-over cable stitch can be used and the instructions followed exactly. Moreover, the French or the Dutch heel, as well as the Auto Heel can be used, if desired.
Note 3: If the calf of the leg is large, be sure to cast on the number of sts quoted for the larger size and decrease to the number of sts required for the ankle in the desired size.
(Kitchener Bitch note: I’m not sure about the sizing on these in 1945 - anyone who can make a recommendation regarding how to choose a size, please pipe up!)
Knee Length Socks:
On no. 1 needles (or one size smaller than correct size to obtain gauge) cast on 64 (68, 72, 76, 80, 84) sts. Divide sts on 3 needles. Join, being careful not to twist sts. Rib in K1, P1 for 1 1/2 (1 1/2, 1 3/4, 1 3/4, 2, 2) inches. At even intervals, increase in next round to 84 (84, 84, 96, 96, 96) sts.
Change to no. 2 needles (or correct size to obtain gauge) and work in pattern st as follows:
Rounds 1 to 5: *P2, K2, P2, K6, repeat from * for entire round.
Round 6: *P2, K2, P2, slip 3 sts onto spare needle and drop to back of work, K3, then K3 from spare, repeat from * for entire round.
Repeat these 6 rounds for pattern st throughout sock. Work even for 3 inches.
Now select a K2 rib as the back semline of your sock and decrease 1 st on each side of these 2 k sts every inch 6 times. Work even until sock from beg. measures 11 (12, 13, 13, 14, 14) inches.
Now with the K2 seamline as the center of your heel, place 32 (32, 32, 38, 38, 38) sts on needle for heel and slip remaining 40 (40, 40, 46, 46, 46) sts onto needle to be worked later.
Shape for double and French heel as follows:
At even intervals, dec heel sts to 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38) sts.
Row 1: Slip 1, purl back.
Row 2: *Slip 1, K1, repeat from * across row.
Repeat these 2 rows for 2 (2, 2 1/4, 2 1/4, 2 1/2, 2 1/2) inches, ending with a P row.
Turn heel as follows: K across half the number of sts on the needle plus 2 extra = 16 (17, 18, 19, 20, 21) sts - K2tog, k1, turn.
Row 1: Slip 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 2: Slip 1, k6, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 3: Slip 1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.
Continue in this manner, always having 1 more st before decrease, thus always knitting or purling the 2 sts together on each side of the hole until 16 (17, 18, 19, 20, 21) sts remain on needle. K 8 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11) sts and leave on a needle. Needle no. 1: K 8 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11) sts (remaining half of heel sts) and with same needle pick up 14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19) sts along side of heel piece. Needle no. 2: work in pattern st across instep sts. Needle no. 3: pick up 13 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19) sts along other side of heel piece, K across remaining 8 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11) sts.
Shape instep as follows:
Round 1: Needle no. 1: Knit. Needle no. 2: Work in pattern st. Needle no. 3: Knit.
Round 2: Needle no. 1: K to within last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Needle no. 2: work in pattern st. Needle no. 3: k1, SKP, k to end of needle.
Repeat these last 2 rounds until there are 72 (72, 80, 80, 88, 88) sts on 3 needles. Work even, still keeping instep sts in cable pattern until foot measures 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) inches. (Kitchener Bitch note: knit to within 2 inches of your desired foot size.)
Next round, at even intervals, dec. instep sts to 32 (32, 34, 34, 36, 36) sts. Now shape toe accordingly:
Round 1: Needle no. 1: K to within last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Needle no. 2: K1, SKP, k to within last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Needle no. 3: K1, SKP, K to end.
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat these 2 rounds until there are 8 (8, 10, 10, 12, 12) sts left on needle no. 2.
Before weaving sts, always arrange sts so that the number of sts on needle no. 2 is equal to the totral number of sts on Needles no. 1 and 3. Place sts on Needles nos. 1 and 3 on one needle and graft sts together using the Kitchener Stitch.
REGULATION SOCKS:
On No. 1 needles (or one size smaller than correct size to obtain gauge) cast on 64 (68, 72, 76, 80, 80) sts and rib in K1, p1 for 3 inches. At even intervals, increase next round to 72 (72, 72, 84, 84, 84) sts. Change to No. 2 needles (or correct size to obtain gauge) and work in pattern st for 7 inches. Now shape heel, foot and toe in same manner as knee-length socks.
ANKLETS:
On No. 1 needles (or one size smaller than correct size to obtain gauge) cast on 64 (68, 72, 76, 80, 80) sts and rib in K1, p1 for 1 inch. At even intervals, increase next round to 72 (72, 72, 84, 84, 84) sts. Change to No. 2 needles (or correct size to obtain gauge) and work in pattern st for 2 inches. Now shape heel, foot and toe in same manner as knee-length socks.
Copyright 1945 by Emile Bernat & Sons Company, updated and annotated by the Kitchener Bitch